The largest part of the canvas that is your remodeling project, often sharing this position with walls and ceilings, is the flooring. What you use to cover this part of the canvas goes a long way in completing the picture and can either compliment, complete or ruin the finished project.

As with the “Wall Finishes” topic we addressed previously, we cannot begin to discuss the seemingly endless list of materials that are currently available to install as finished flooring. What we can do is enter into a discussion into how to pick the right “type” of flooring for your application.  

Carpet  

Carpet In Hall and Bedroom

This doesn’t have to be viewed as the choice of last resort. The pallet of colors, textures, styles and patterns that are available, can be used to compliment any décor. Family Rooms, Living Rooms, Bedrooms, and Basements are prime spaces for carpet. Using its warmth and softness allows for persons to spend time on the floor without worrying about comfort. Carpets have also made strides in offering environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic products that help families live in safer healthier environments.

Hardwood In The Living Room

Hardwood In The Kitchen

Hardwood & Laminates

Tile  

Tile In The Bathroom

One of the more luxurious choices for finishing your project, it affords some of the widest range of choices for adding the coup-de-grace to your project. Colors, textures, patterns and materials of all types allow you to create different environments from room to room. Traditionally used in the Kitchen and Bathroom areas of house, tile has been making inroads into other rooms of the house as well. Look for tile installed in Foyers, Sunrooms, Powder Rooms, Basements, Dining Rooms as well as Kitchens and Bathrooms. Under floor heat makes a great Tile floor even better especially for families that enjoy going barefoot around the house.

Others   

For the sake of trying to introduce you to some alternative flooring materials, I will list a few here and you can ask us about them or do further research on your own. 

Bamboo 

Stamped/Stained Concrete 

Cork 

Marmoleum 

Rubber     

Remember that choosing the right flooring is the final step in placing the stamp of completion on your project.  The volume of choices out there can prove to be overwhelming to even the most seasoned client. Don’t be shy about asking for help, our designers are trained in leading you through the process of putting the finishing touches on your project. Give us a call, we would love to talk about your project!

Happy Remodeling!   

Next Time… Spring Is Just Around The Corner!    

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.    

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.  

Professional Interior Finishes

There are so many possibilities when it comes to the materials for wall finishes that it would be impossible to cover in a blog venue. So I want to give you some general direction and some thoughts to ponder when it comes down to making the decision about painting, wallpapering, etc.

The temptation when getting prices for a remodeling project is to try to save money by doing some of the components yourself. Thoughts of…“I can do the demolition” or “I can clean up everyday” seem harmless to the untrained ear. But inevitably those thoughts often end up with the client saying “and I can do the painting too” or worse yet “my cousin Vinny painted his Garage last year, he can paint the Kitchen for me and all I have to do is feed him.”

Painting, or whatever wall finish you choose, is the final touch on the project and in being such should not be taken lightly. A carpenter can craft a beautiful addition including fine cabinetry and lavish trim work, etc.; however, if corners are cut during the finishing stages, it will never attain the wow factor that it was meant to possess.

Simply put, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE WALL FINISHES!

Top of the line paint with low VOC ratings, wallpaper (from recycled materials of course), faux finishes, tile or whatever you decide to put on your walls, will be the finishing touch to the masterpiece that you worked so hard to create. This is what you and your guests will be faced with every time you walk into the room. You really want the cut-in lines to be straight, bleed over minimized, brush and roller strokes eliminated to be able to say that the finishes add to the beauty of the room, not detract from it.

Don’t get me wrong, wall finishes can certainly be a project that can be done by the DIY’er, but take into consideration what you want the finished product to look like and be. It would be a shame to spend good money to get an addition built; only to have “Cousin Vinny” put his permanent mark on your house for all to see. Think of it as letting a three year old put the finishing touches on the Cistene Chapel, not too smart; nor would it have been quite so impressive, even after all these years.

In closing, if you do want to tackle the finishing of your project, don’t rush it, take your time and do it right, you want it to look good. But more than that, I would encourage you to let the finishing touches up to the professionals, you will never regret it!

Happy Remodeling!

Next Time… Project Log #9 – Floor Finishes

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.

Some tips on drywall installation…  

1. Check for the presence of nailers prior to installing first sheet of drywall.  

This prevents you having to stop right in the middle of installation to cut and install a nailer in a corner or ceiling. Nailers provide solid backing for the drywall as not to allow the sheet to flex and or the joints to crack easily.  

2. When measuring to cut a sheet to length, check top and bottom of sheet.   

Framing can be out of square/plumb, especially in older homes. You want to make sure that your sheet falls as close to the middle of the stud as possible to provide solid nailing for both sheets.   

3. Only put out as much adhesive as can be covered by the current sheet.  

You don’t want to waste adhesive by gluing up the entire wall and then not getting to it for some reason. Apply adhesive after the piece has been measured and cut and even dry fit if necessary.  

Some tips on Spackling…  

4. Use fresh spackling as much as possible.   

Using the bucket that your father-in-law had left over from 2000 when he did his Kitchen doesn’t save you anything. You will be frustrated by the installation performance of the product. Buy new, use fresh when you can. 

Drywall Spackling: 1st Coat

 5. Mix spackling prior to using it.  

It is always best to thoroughly mix the spackling prior to trying to place it on the wall. This helps to work out any air bubbles as well as giving the material a uniform consistency. You may also add a little water at this point depending on what stage of the process you are in. The first coats can be a little thicker than the last coats. This helps to limit the dry time of the initial coat which tends to be thicker than the last thinner coats.   

6.  Use the correct knife to install spackling.   

Going from a 4” knife initially, all the way up to a 12”-16” knife for the final coats. Using progressively larger knives spreads out the spackling over a larger area and feathers the edges to blend them seamlessly. Make sure you work your paper into a full bed of spackling as not to have air bubbles or paper pulling away from a dry joint. If this occurs, stop and fix it right away as it will not go away with more coats. It is easier to address it sooner than later.   

 

Drywall: Finished Spackling; Wide Smooth Joints; Nail Heads Covered

Drywall: Finished Outside and Inside Corners

 

 

7. Avoid sanding as much as possible.

You probably can’t avoid sanding all together, but there are ways to minimize it. Taking your time with each coat and making the spackling as thin as you can, will help to make the joints smooth. You should either lightly sand or use a wet sponge between coats to knock down any high spots or knife marks. Doing this after each coat will make it easier to create a smooth looking wall with no noticeable joints.    

8. Last but not least, get your wife involved in spackling.

Studies show that women make better drywall finishers mostly because of their light touch. It might also have to do with the fact that they tend to be a little more patient. And believe me, spackling can try your patience.

Happy Remodeling!

Next Time… Project Log #8 – Wall Finishes    

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.    

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.   

After making sure that everything that needs to go inside the walls and ceilings is complete, comes the fun of installing and finishing the drywall. Before you hang one sheet, make sure that all of your rough inspections are completed and compliant. If changes need to be made, it is much easier and cost effective to do them prior to installing the drywall, than after the drywall is hung and spackled.

Drywall Sizes & Thicknesses - Many To Choose From

Drywall comes in different sized sheets in length (i.e. : 8’-0” thru 16’-0”) and thickness (1/4” thru 3/4”). The most common width is 4’-0”(48”) although 4’-6” (54”) can be found. One consideration in picking the right drywall is its application. If your ceiling joists are two feet on center, you may consider going with a thicker sheet to prevent sagging. If you have a curved wall or soffit to close in, a thinner, perhaps a 1/4” thick sheet, would make the installation easier. You can go with two layers of 1/4” if you desire the extra thickness.

The building codes in your area will also dictate the thickness of the drywall in special area and locations throughout the house. For one example, the code will require thicker drywall (5/8” – 3/4”) to be installed on the common wall between the living space and the Garage. Thicker drywall installation will be required on the ceiling of the Garage should there be living space above. This is commonly referred to as fire code or fire resistant drywall.

Another type of specialty drywall is what is called moisture resistant. This type of drywall comes with a special coating that helps to protect the surface should it be installed in a high moisture content area such as a Bathroom, Laundry or Kitchen. This drywall, even though it is called moisture resistant, is not meant to be left fully exposed to high volumes of water. It needs to be covered and protected in some way, painted in the very least.

It is good to clean up the space and run through the drywall installation in your mind before you order the drywall. You can mix your order up between sizes and thickness to accommodate your install and make your life easier. This clean up and inventory also gives you a chance to check on the framing and make sure you have nailers where necessary and desired. Check your inside and outside corners and wall intersections and make sure you have solid blocking to receive the drywall fasteners.

Happy Remodeling!

Next Time… Project Log #6 – Drywall Installation & Finishing

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.

We’re back…after a little break.   

 Let’s look at some insulation options.   

There are many options out there for insulating your living space. Due to space considerations we are going to focus on three that we at Gehman Custom Remodeling use on a regular basis…   

1. Fiberglass
2. Cellulose
3. Spray Foam Urethane

Fiberglass Insulation Installed In Attic

Fiberglass   

This still the most widely used type of insulation. Mainly due to the price point that is comes into. Also contributing to this is probably the fact that it can be installed by mostly anyone from home owners to the most seasoned professional. Great care needs to be taken during the installation process in order for this material to perform as intended. Gaps and un-insulated spaces are common when installation is not done correctly.    

Installing Cellulose Insulation In Addition

Cellulose Insulation Installed - Tight Around Obstacles

Cellulose   

This option is made up of a combination of ground up newspaper combined with a fire and/or pest retardant. It is sprayed/forced into the wall/ceiling cavities sealing around most obstacles and tight to framing. Unlike fiberglass, this product should not be installed by anyone but a professional. Mainly due to need of specialty installation machines which blow the product into the cavities of the space.   

Installed Cellulose - Completely Filled Cavities

However, if you are ambitious and want to try it yourself, rental units are becoming more and more available and can be used to blow loose cellulose into Attic spaces.   

Installing Spray Foam Insulation In Basement Walls

Spray Foam - Air Tight; Moisture Sealed Out = Well Insulated

Spray Foam Urethane   

Foam insulation is one of the most highly performing types of insulation as well as being versatile in its applications. In large scale applications, such as basements, additions, and retrofitting walls and ceilings, a professional installer should be used. Due to the volatile expansion of this product it is imperative that it is installed correctly for the space in which it is being used. Proper preparations are required to minimize clean up and damage to the surrounding objects. Foam is very good at sealing off air flow and moisture infiltration. It has a high R-value per inch and therefore is helpful in obtain high insulating factors in smaller wall/ceiling cavities.    

There is much more information and many more factors that go into making the choice of the right insulation for your project than what we could have put here. Do your research (try this website), set your goals and get the advice of a reputable contractor before committing to installing an insulation material.   

Happy Remodeling!   

Next Time… Project Log #5 – Close In: Drywall   

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.   

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.

During this stage, there is a lot of activity. Let’s talk about a few of the initial stages of a remodeling project.  

Rough Framing

 1.      Rough Framing – This is one of the most exciting times. This phase takes you from a blank canvas and gives your project a framework. 

At this phase, you can come home every day and see a lot of change. 

Rough Roof Framing

The floors, walls and roofs take shape. Windows and doors are installed. Basically, the structure is defined.  

Rough Window Framing

Rough Electrical

Given these locations, the Electrician can go to work running the wiring to all the devices prior to the installation of the drywall.

The location of the rough plumbing, hot and cold water supplies as well as the drain and vent lines, is driven by the layout of cabinets in a Kitchen and the location of the main plumbing fixtures in a Bathroom.  

Rough Plumbing

You want to get this right, coordinating with manufacturer’s specifications for the fixtures that you have chosen.   

Given the size and inflexibility of the HVAC supply and return lines, this rough in process should ideally be done first. At the very least, the HVAC contractor should mark out the locations of his work so that the other utility contractors will know where his units and duct work will be run. There is nothing that can delay a project like having to get a contractor back to relocate their work because it is in the way of the HVAC lines.   

All that being said, it is very important to coordinate the installation of the utility lines so that rework is kept to a minimum if not eliminated.   

Just remember to check and double check your measurements according to the floor plans, cabinet layouts and manufacturer’s specifications prior to allowing drywall to be installed. It is less expensive to move an outlet or fixture location before the drywall is installed rather than after when rework will take hours instead of minutes.   

Happy Remodeling!   

Next Time… Project Log #4 – Time to Insulate    

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.   

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.

Upon completion of the installation of the dust and dirt protection the “fun” part of the project is set to begin. The reason that demolition is looked at as fun is because you don’t necessarily have to worry about too much. Ripping, sawing, scraping, and pulling out the old finishes is like tearing the top sheet of paper off of a sketch pad. What you will have left is a clean canvas on which to create the dreams of the client. 

In saying that, there are some areas that need to be taken into consideration as the demolition phase of the project progresses and some of these things need to be addressed or decided upon prior to the first day on site. Let take a look at a few demolition concerns. 

1. Who is responsible of the demolition phase of the project? 

Some clients choose to do the demolition themselves. There has to be a clear understanding on the part of both parties as to what that looks like and what needs to be done and when. Deadlines need to be established with non-compliance penalties if they are not met. Don’t start off on a bad note. 

2. Which items are being disposed of and which items need to be saved to either be reinstalled or re-used or recycled? 

What Needs To Go?

Most of the time, this issue is addressed right in the contract so that everyone is on the same page. Just make sure that the workers doing the demolition know the particulars before even entering the home. It is better to talk it through a few times than make the mistake of disposing of an item that the client wanted or needed. 

3. What methods are being used to remove the debris from the jobsite? 

Are you getting a dumpster delivered to the jobsite? Where is it going to be placed? 

Are you bagging the debris and utilizing the client’s trash disposal service? 

Is the client cleaning up and handling the disposal of trash and debris to save a little money? 

Are you hauling everything away in your trailer and delivering it to the dump each day?

Daily Trash Trailer

4. Where are the potential hazards during the demolition phase? 

Is there lead paint present that needs to be dealt with prior to continuing the project? 

Do the workers need to utilize dust protection and breathing apparatus due to conditions during demolition? 

Hidden Pipes & Wires - Be Careful!

Are there potential concealed water and drain pipes, electrical wiring, HVAC ducts, etc. that need to be reworked for the project? Even with due diligence in the design and estimating stages of the project, workers can encounter unforeseen or concealed items that will need to be addressed before the project can proceed.    

5. What condition is the site to be left in during and following the demolition phase? 

What has been expressed by the client as their expectations for the daily maintenance of the jobsite? 

Have you agreed to keep the jobsite free from dirt and debris as to keep the family as safe from harm as possible? 

Clean Jobsite After Demolition

Has the client agreed to clean up each evening to help keep the costs down somewhat? 

Not a Good Arrangement - Piles Of Trash

Agree as to the condition in which the jobsite needs to be in order for the family as well as the workers to enjoy safe and productive conditions. 

Answering these and some additional questions prior to starting the project will help to alleviate the need for stopping the project to clarify the needs and responsibility of each party involved. 

Happy Remodeling! 

Next Time… Project Log #3 – Rough-In  

Q&A&C – Questions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed. 

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.