Project Log #5 – Drywall

After making sure that everything that needs to go inside the walls and ceilings is complete, comes the fun of installing and finishing the drywall. Before you hang one sheet, make sure that all of your rough inspections are completed and compliant. If changes need to be made, it is much easier and cost effective to do them prior to installing the drywall, than after the drywall is hung and spackled.

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Drywall Sizes & Thicknesses – Many To Choose From

Drywall comes in different sized sheets in length (i.e. : 8’-0” thru 16’-0”) and thickness (1/4” thru 3/4”). The most common width is 4’-0”(48”) although 4’-6” (54”) can be found. One consideration in picking the right drywall is its application. If your ceiling joists are two feet on center, you may consider going with a thicker sheet to prevent sagging. If you have a curved wall or soffit to close in, a thinner, perhaps a 1/4” thick sheet, would make the installation easier. You can go with two layers of 1/4” if you desire the extra thickness.

The building codes in your area will also dictate the thickness of the drywall in special area and locations throughout the house. For one example, the code will require thicker drywall (5/8” – 3/4”) to be installed on the common wall between the living space and the Garage. Thicker drywall installation will be required on the ceiling of the Garage should there be living space above. This is commonly referred to as fire code or fire resistant drywall.

Another type of specialty drywall is what is called moisture resistant. This type of drywall comes with a special coating that helps to protect the surface should it be installed in a high moisture content area such as a Bathroom, Laundry or Kitchen. This drywall, even though it is called moisture resistant, is not meant to be left fully exposed to high volumes of water. It needs to be covered and protected in some way, painted in the very least.

It is good to clean up the space and run through the drywall installation in your mind before you order the drywall. You can mix your order up between sizes and thickness to accommodate your install and make your life easier. This clean up and inventory also gives you a chance to check on the framing and make sure you have nailers where necessary and desired. Check your inside and outside corners and wall intersections and make sure you have solid blocking to receive the drywall fasteners.

Happy Remodeling!

Next Time… Project Log #6 – Drywall Installation & Finishing

Q&A&CQuestions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.

Project Log #4 – Insulation

We’re back…after a little break.  

Let’s look at some insulation options.  

There are many options out there for insulating your living space. Due to space considerations we are going to focus on three that we at Gehman Custom Remodeling use on a regular basis…

    1. Fiberglass
    2. Cellulose
    3. Spray Foam Urethane

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Fiberglass Insulation Installed In Attic

Fiberglass 

This still the most widely used type of insulation. Mainly due to the price point that is comes into. Also contributing to this is probably the fact that it can be installed by mostly anyone from home owners to the most seasoned professional. Great care needs to be taken during the installation process in order for this material to perform as intended. Gaps and un-insulated spaces are common when installation is not done correctly.

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Installing Cellulose Insulation In Addition

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Cellulose Insulation Installed – Tight Around Obstacles

Cellulose

This option is made up of a combination of ground up newspaper combined with a fire and/or pest retardant. It is sprayed/forced into the wall/ceiling cavities sealing around most obstacles and tight to framing. Unlike fiberglass, this product should not be installed by anyone but a professional. Mainly due to need of specialty installation machines which blow the product into the cavities of the space.

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Installed Cellulose – Completely Filled Cavities

However, if you are ambitious and want to try it yourself, rental units are becoming more and more available and can be used to blow loose cellulose into Attic spaces

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Installing Spray Foam Insulation In Basement Walls

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Spray Foam – Air Tight; Moisture Sealed Out = Well Insulated

Spray Foam Urethane

Foam insulation is one of the most highly performing types of insulation as well as being versatile in its applications. In large scale applications, such as basements, additions, and retrofitting walls and ceilings, a professional installer should be used. Due to the volatile expansion of this product it is imperative that it is installed correctly for the space in which it is being used. Proper preparations are required to minimize clean up and damage to the surrounding objects. Foam is very good at sealing off air flow and moisture infiltration. It has a high R-value per inch and therefore is helpful in obtain high insulating factors in smaller wall/ceiling cavities.

There is much more information and many more factors that go into making the choice of the right insulation for your project than what we could have put here. Do your research (try this website), set your goals and get the advice of a reputable contractor before committing to installing an insulation material.

Happy Remodeling!

Next Time… Project Log #5 – Close In: Drywall  

Q&A&CQuestions and Answers and Comments are expected and welcomed.

YOUR STORY – Tell us about your remodeling experiences, good or bad. We all have had them and perhaps you can help someone else have a great remodeling experience or avoid the issues that you encountered. Remember…keep it clean and civil or we can’t publish it.